February 20, 2012 my friends and I toured the small quaint village of Frigiliana (pronounced free-hilly-anna). The village was right out of a picture book. A tiny village built in the mountains with a population of approximately 3,000; mostly Central Europeans because southern Spain is a favorite vacation spot in the winter. All the small white washed houses were joined together like Siamese Twins. There were no front yards, not even a small porch or sidewalk for the pedestrians to walk on. The entrances to their homes were directly on the roadway, which was a long winding piece of artwork made up completely of concrete and small round smooth stones laid in intricate designs.
We were told this was Moorish design. The Moors had occupied Frigiliana until 1487 when it was conquered by the Catholic Monarch. The Moors were allowed to stay but under tight constraints causing frequent uprisings until 1609 when they were finally exiled to Africa.
One of my favorite spots in the village was the 16th century parish of San Antonio Catholic Church. I had not expected to see such rich beauty in this poor little village. (I guess I shouldn't have been surprised now that I think of it. My experience has been that no matter how poor an area, if there is a Catholic church there, it is richly furnished, but I'll stay off my soap box and continue.) The most outstanding feature of the exterior of the church building is its clock tower. The interior has a fine choir, silver and gold treasures in the sacristy and three 17th century paintings. The church has a nave and two aisles, with Mudejar coffered ceilings.
The villagers lived and worked in their tiny narrow homes. Many of the homes doors were left open allowing myself and other tourist to peek in. The homes were neat, clean and sparsely decorated. All the homes' floors were paved with tiles and decorative tiles could be found throughout the walls inside and outside of the homes. Several of the homes served not only as residences but also as businesses, selling fresh produce, canned goods, wines, and boutique items.
All this on a mountain side going straight up. There was a small train provided for those who were not capable of walking the tour up the winding road. I am thankful I have my health and was able to traverse up the path throughout this adorable little town. One of my companions talked to an elderly woman walking up the path carrying her groceries. She was from England and wintered in Frigiliana every year for the past 13 years since her retirement. She said the roads were so narrow and groceries and toiletries were readily available in the village so there was little reason to have a car. She walked everywhere.
I was not sure why I went to Spain except for the experience of going to Europe. Now I was finding the experience was one full of great knowledge, a knowledge I had not expected. I knew I would see Christopher Columbus' homeland. I would be surrounded by history. But I was learning from the people who lived there here and now, not just in the past. I was learning what is important in our lives, not the materialistic lives we live in the states.
Now that I am back in the states, I hope that I can make use of the things I learned.
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